The simplest comparison I have for hiking the Long Trail is to those
individuals that have experience hiking the Northern Sections of the
Appalachian Trail, specifically the White Mountains in New Hampshire and
Southern Maine. The Long Trail is not very forgiving.
The first ~100
miles, however, going NOBO (where the AT/LT are joined) is a nice
shakedown into hiking. I’d recommend hiking NOBO if you have very
little experience hiking or are not in the best physical shape since the
first 100 miles going NOBO are more forgiving than the other 174 miles
further North.
After the split with the Appalachian Trail at the
Maine Junction, the Long Trail becomes, in the words of a former AT/LT
hiker, “annoying”. By annoying, I mean that there are plenty of PUDS
(pointless ups and downs) throughout the day that bring you to wooded
summits only to bring you back down only to climb right back up. The
trail mainly travels in thick forest so you will see A LOT of greenery
for miles. There is a nice gradual 18 mile stretch from VT 15 to the
spur to Hazen’s Notch Camp Shelter but expect the rest of the trail to
be lined with overgrown vegetation, muddy, rocky, rooty, steep, or a
combination of these.
Be attentive of the blazes especially near
ski areas as the trail will cross, join, intersect, or leave a ski
slope(s) or snowmobile slope(s). The first 100 miles with the AT will
spoil you will blazes marked at least every 5 mins but marked blazes
become fewer after Maine Junction. The Long Trail guide book will warn
that certain wilderness sections are poorly blaze with overgrown
vegetation so pay attention and you’ll be fine.
There are rewards!
Beautiful ponds, especially Stratton and Sterling Pond. Incredible
vistas off of Glastenbury and Stratton firetowers, Killington Peak,
Sunset Ledge, Mt Abraham, overlooks on the Lincoln Range, Camel’s Hump,
Mount Mansfield, overlook on Laraway Mountain, and Jay Peak.
The
Long Trail is America’s Oldest Long Distance Trail and it travels
through some of Vermont’s most beautiful wilderness. It is not the
Appalachian Trail; it is its own trail and surely can be quite an
adventure given the right mindset. Enjoy!
More information can be found here: http://www.greenmountainclub.org/page.php?id=2
I
hope this information from my experience helps in planning your next
Long Trail adventure and feel free to contact me if I can be of further
assistance.
Saturday, August 27, 2011
From my Experience: Guidebooks for the Long Trail
I carried the Vermont's Long Trail Waterproof Hiking Map 4th Edition
(https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2216) and kept it in my pocket. I enjoyed having easy access to trail’s upcoming profiles. I found that some of the climbs look steeper than they really were. Jay Peak, for example, was not as bad of a grade as I thought it was going to be. Camel’s Hump’s profile looks crazy on the map but it was a quick, steep climb followed by a long, long, long decent. The mileage on the map did not always match up with the mileage from the End to Ender’s Guide or the Long Trail Guide. I was told by a caretaker that this map is one of the best that is currently available for the Long Trail. The accuracy of the map has been enhanced through the use of GPS technology. I highly recommend carrying this map.
I also carried the End-to-Ender's Guide, 18th Edition 2011 (https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2225). I relied on this guide for town information and shelter information. I found that the organization of the book to be confusing at times especially since I was use to the setup of the The Handbook for the AT, which is also authored by Bob McCaw. There are separate sections for the distance between shelters, descriptions of shelters, town information, and “other” information. I found several typos regarding mileage. There are other typos regarding town information as well, such as the price for the Green Mountain House Hostel and the Green Mountain Inn being hiker friendly. Information regarding shelters in the shelter information is outdated. Emily Proctor Shelter, for example, should have excellent views and be vulnerable in bad weather but that is not the case. The view is completely overgrown by trees and it appears to be well protected from winds. The guide state’s that there is a hand pump for water at Shooting Star Shelter. Not true! The water source is a stream 500 ft below the shelter and it was dry during my experience.
Finally, I also carried the Long Trail Guide, 26th Edition (https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2200 ). I loved this book! The mileage in this book would usually agree with the End to Ender’s Guide but would sometimes disagree with the map mileage. I enjoyed reading the descriptions of the upcoming trails and shelters. There was not information regarding town stops but plenty of information regarding the shelters and trails. It also provided information on what you were looking at from the vistas and historical information of the area/shelters. I got in the habit of reading at night the section of trail I was going to hike the following day and found that it was spot on.
I would recommend carrying all three.
(https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2216) and kept it in my pocket. I enjoyed having easy access to trail’s upcoming profiles. I found that some of the climbs look steeper than they really were. Jay Peak, for example, was not as bad of a grade as I thought it was going to be. Camel’s Hump’s profile looks crazy on the map but it was a quick, steep climb followed by a long, long, long decent. The mileage on the map did not always match up with the mileage from the End to Ender’s Guide or the Long Trail Guide. I was told by a caretaker that this map is one of the best that is currently available for the Long Trail. The accuracy of the map has been enhanced through the use of GPS technology. I highly recommend carrying this map.
I also carried the End-to-Ender's Guide, 18th Edition 2011 (https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2225). I relied on this guide for town information and shelter information. I found that the organization of the book to be confusing at times especially since I was use to the setup of the The Handbook for the AT, which is also authored by Bob McCaw. There are separate sections for the distance between shelters, descriptions of shelters, town information, and “other” information. I found several typos regarding mileage. There are other typos regarding town information as well, such as the price for the Green Mountain House Hostel and the Green Mountain Inn being hiker friendly. Information regarding shelters in the shelter information is outdated. Emily Proctor Shelter, for example, should have excellent views and be vulnerable in bad weather but that is not the case. The view is completely overgrown by trees and it appears to be well protected from winds. The guide state’s that there is a hand pump for water at Shooting Star Shelter. Not true! The water source is a stream 500 ft below the shelter and it was dry during my experience.
Finally, I also carried the Long Trail Guide, 26th Edition (https://www.greenmountainclub.org/product_detail.php?sku=2200 ). I loved this book! The mileage in this book would usually agree with the End to Ender’s Guide but would sometimes disagree with the map mileage. I enjoyed reading the descriptions of the upcoming trails and shelters. There was not information regarding town stops but plenty of information regarding the shelters and trails. It also provided information on what you were looking at from the vistas and historical information of the area/shelters. I got in the habit of reading at night the section of trail I was going to hike the following day and found that it was spot on.
I would recommend carrying all three.
From my Experience: Towns
Towns are a part of the trail experience and I have a few must stops to recommend.
(1) Whistlestop CafĂ© – I’ve only heard good things about this dinner even though I didn’t stop there. Something about their sweet potato fries, and ice cream sundaes… http://www.menupix.com/vermont/restaurants/4501484/Whistle-Stop-Restaurant-North-Clarendon-VT
(2) Manchester Center, VT – make sure to make a reservation at the Green Mountain House Hostel run by Jeff at a cost of $20. He will pick you up in Manchester Center, take you back to the Hostel, and then take you back to the trailhead. This price includes a warm, homey feeling house, shower, laundry, loan clothes, a pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream, tv, internet, and kitchen. No alcohol allowed but dogs are welcome. The End to Ender’s Guide states that it is $15 dollars but that is WRONG. Your experience at the Green Mountain House Hostel will go well beyond $20 dollars…TRUST ME.
(3) Rutland, VT – stay at the Inn at the Long Trail on VT 4. You can tent across from the Inn for FREE. Breakfast is included in the price if you get a room. This isn’t the continental breakfast you may be accustomed to at a HOJO along an interstate. It is AMAZING!!!! The pub is open for lunch/dinner and has live bands on the weekends. I’d recommend the soda bread and beef stew. If you have time, hitch 15 miles West to the Long Trail Brewery and have lunch/dinner.
(4) Waitsfield, VT – laundry, resupply, and The Hyde Away Inn and Restaurant (http://www.hydeawayinn.com/) Excellent service and a little pricey for what I’m use to but the food was fantastic, relaxing atmosphere, hospitable staff, and they even folded our laundry for us. Highly recommend stopping here and mentally prepping for Burnt Rock Mountain, Camel’s Hump, Bolton Mountain, and Mount Mansfield leading into Stowe.
(5) Richmond, VT – isn’t far from the trail and was an easy hitch from VT 2. Excellent local diner and a grocery store for resupply. I recommend this option rather than a resupply at the PO at Jonesville OR you could always do both.
(6) Stowe, VT – eat at Frida’s! http://www.fridastaqueria.com/ MOST AMAZING FOOD EVER!!!! The End to Ender’s guide recommends staying at the Green Mountain Inn especially if you are a GMC member (which I am) for $79.50/night…DON’T! Not hiker friendly. I recommend going to the visitor center a few blocks from the Green Mountain Inn (http://www.gostowe.com/about/visitor-services) and ask about lodging. We found a sweet room for 4 above Frida’s for $97 (split 4 ways). Stowe is a typical tourist town. I would recommend getting a maple creamee while doing your laundry in Stowe.
(7) Johnson, VT – If you can swing an additional night in Stowe instead of staying in Johnson, I’d recommend it. The grocery store in Johnson recently closed so the last sweet resupply going NOBO is the Shaw’s in Stowe. If you are planning on resupplying in Johnson, then I would recommend a maildrop to that location.
(8) North Troy, VT – stay at the North Troy Bed and Breakfast with Sam and Norm. Words cannot experience their hospitality and willingness to help hikers. Sam cooks a mean vegetarian breakfast in the morning. They have the most adorable cat too. Prices are completely reasonable. $35 dollars for a single and $60 for a double. If you are planning a SOBO, they will give you a ride to the trailhead. If you are a NOBO and you just finished your hike, they are willing in pick you up from/near the trailhead if you have cell service to contact them. Also, Norm works in Bennington, VT during the week and will be more than happy to let you accompany him on his drive to work. This is a great opportunity if you are trying to get back to some sort of civilization to travel home as Bennington has bus options or perhaps even a rental car.
(1) Whistlestop CafĂ© – I’ve only heard good things about this dinner even though I didn’t stop there. Something about their sweet potato fries, and ice cream sundaes… http://www.menupix.com/vermont/restaurants/4501484/Whistle-Stop-Restaurant-North-Clarendon-VT
(2) Manchester Center, VT – make sure to make a reservation at the Green Mountain House Hostel run by Jeff at a cost of $20. He will pick you up in Manchester Center, take you back to the Hostel, and then take you back to the trailhead. This price includes a warm, homey feeling house, shower, laundry, loan clothes, a pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream, tv, internet, and kitchen. No alcohol allowed but dogs are welcome. The End to Ender’s Guide states that it is $15 dollars but that is WRONG. Your experience at the Green Mountain House Hostel will go well beyond $20 dollars…TRUST ME.
(3) Rutland, VT – stay at the Inn at the Long Trail on VT 4. You can tent across from the Inn for FREE. Breakfast is included in the price if you get a room. This isn’t the continental breakfast you may be accustomed to at a HOJO along an interstate. It is AMAZING!!!! The pub is open for lunch/dinner and has live bands on the weekends. I’d recommend the soda bread and beef stew. If you have time, hitch 15 miles West to the Long Trail Brewery and have lunch/dinner.
(4) Waitsfield, VT – laundry, resupply, and The Hyde Away Inn and Restaurant (http://www.hydeawayinn.com/) Excellent service and a little pricey for what I’m use to but the food was fantastic, relaxing atmosphere, hospitable staff, and they even folded our laundry for us. Highly recommend stopping here and mentally prepping for Burnt Rock Mountain, Camel’s Hump, Bolton Mountain, and Mount Mansfield leading into Stowe.
(5) Richmond, VT – isn’t far from the trail and was an easy hitch from VT 2. Excellent local diner and a grocery store for resupply. I recommend this option rather than a resupply at the PO at Jonesville OR you could always do both.
(6) Stowe, VT – eat at Frida’s! http://www.fridastaqueria.com/ MOST AMAZING FOOD EVER!!!! The End to Ender’s guide recommends staying at the Green Mountain Inn especially if you are a GMC member (which I am) for $79.50/night…DON’T! Not hiker friendly. I recommend going to the visitor center a few blocks from the Green Mountain Inn (http://www.gostowe.com/about/visitor-services) and ask about lodging. We found a sweet room for 4 above Frida’s for $97 (split 4 ways). Stowe is a typical tourist town. I would recommend getting a maple creamee while doing your laundry in Stowe.
(7) Johnson, VT – If you can swing an additional night in Stowe instead of staying in Johnson, I’d recommend it. The grocery store in Johnson recently closed so the last sweet resupply going NOBO is the Shaw’s in Stowe. If you are planning on resupplying in Johnson, then I would recommend a maildrop to that location.
(8) North Troy, VT – stay at the North Troy Bed and Breakfast with Sam and Norm. Words cannot experience their hospitality and willingness to help hikers. Sam cooks a mean vegetarian breakfast in the morning. They have the most adorable cat too. Prices are completely reasonable. $35 dollars for a single and $60 for a double. If you are planning a SOBO, they will give you a ride to the trailhead. If you are a NOBO and you just finished your hike, they are willing in pick you up from/near the trailhead if you have cell service to contact them. Also, Norm works in Bennington, VT during the week and will be more than happy to let you accompany him on his drive to work. This is a great opportunity if you are trying to get back to some sort of civilization to travel home as Bennington has bus options or perhaps even a rental car.
Friday, August 26, 2011
From My Experience...My New Gear/Cell Service
My New Gear
I LOVED my ULA circuit. (http://www.ula-equipment.com/circuit.asp) I met two SOBO LT hikers carrying the same pack and they had nothing but good things to say as well. I began with 30 lbs on my back and the pack carried it very well. I could easily get to items on the side pouches as well as the front mesh pocket. Very durable and held up for all 279 miles.
My poles from gossamer gear (http://gossamergear.com/trekking/lt3c-trekking-poles.html), however, are a different story. The tips of each pole were completely bent by 220 miles. I love that they are lightweight but I’m not so sure what’s going on with the tips. I might be a little to hard on these types of poles.
Dirty Girl Gaiters (http://www.dirtygirlgaiters.com/) are a must if you are hiking in trail runners! I cannot stand getting mud, rocks, leaves, dirt, etc. in my shoes and these held up the whole way. I did not have any problems with the Velcro attached to the heel of my shoes even when I sank knee deep in mud. For $17 (which includes shipping) you can’t go wrong. I even washed them with my laundry and they came out clean. Very breathable and light. The only complaint is that you have to take your shoes on and off to remove the gaiters, which I can live with.
My Evernew Titanium Minimalist Set (http://www.antigravitygear.com/evernew-titanium-minimalist-set-eca268.html) did not let me down. I did not try the option of wood as fuel and just stuck with alcohol. Very simple, durable, and lightweight. It trapped the heat much longer than I expected keeping my dinner warm long after the fire went out (which was unfortunate for my tongue). The flames do encompass the pot so I had to use my pack towel to remove the pot so that I didn’t burn myself.
Cell Service
I have Verizon service and it was spotty at best. AT&T provided much better service. Please be aware that after Jay Peak heading north, cell phones, regardless of server, will ping off of Canadian towers, which could easily increase your monthly cell phone bill.
I LOVED my ULA circuit. (http://www.ula-equipment.com/circuit.asp) I met two SOBO LT hikers carrying the same pack and they had nothing but good things to say as well. I began with 30 lbs on my back and the pack carried it very well. I could easily get to items on the side pouches as well as the front mesh pocket. Very durable and held up for all 279 miles.
My poles from gossamer gear (http://gossamergear.com/trekking/lt3c-trekking-poles.html), however, are a different story. The tips of each pole were completely bent by 220 miles. I love that they are lightweight but I’m not so sure what’s going on with the tips. I might be a little to hard on these types of poles.
Dirty Girl Gaiters (http://www.dirtygirlgaiters.com/) are a must if you are hiking in trail runners! I cannot stand getting mud, rocks, leaves, dirt, etc. in my shoes and these held up the whole way. I did not have any problems with the Velcro attached to the heel of my shoes even when I sank knee deep in mud. For $17 (which includes shipping) you can’t go wrong. I even washed them with my laundry and they came out clean. Very breathable and light. The only complaint is that you have to take your shoes on and off to remove the gaiters, which I can live with.
My Evernew Titanium Minimalist Set (http://www.antigravitygear.com/evernew-titanium-minimalist-set-eca268.html) did not let me down. I did not try the option of wood as fuel and just stuck with alcohol. Very simple, durable, and lightweight. It trapped the heat much longer than I expected keeping my dinner warm long after the fire went out (which was unfortunate for my tongue). The flames do encompass the pot so I had to use my pack towel to remove the pot so that I didn’t burn myself.
Cell Service
I have Verizon service and it was spotty at best. AT&T provided much better service. Please be aware that after Jay Peak heading north, cell phones, regardless of server, will ping off of Canadian towers, which could easily increase your monthly cell phone bill.
From my Experience: Resupply
To use a maildrop or not to use a maildrop?
In regards to the Long Trail, there are plenty of road crossing that provide a place to resupply every 2-3 days. I would recommend increasing resupply points and decreasing pack weight along the trail with the exception of the area north of VT 15 to the Canadian Border. I did see traffic on the road crossing in that area but I don’t think getting a hitch is as easy since there are not resupply points close to those roads. VT 118, for example, had a gas station 4 miles east but that might have everything you’re looking for. VT 105, 2.5 miles south of the Canadian Border, has NO resupply points near the trailhead…not a single one.
A maildrop at the Inn at the Long Trail was nice but not necessary unless you have specific dietary needs. You must ship UPS to the Long Trail! The PO in Jonesville, VT is right on the trail but you can hitch on VT 2 into Richmond, VT and eat some good food at the local diner and finish off with a resupply.
This decision is completely personal but I found that resupplying is not an issue along the trail until the area north of the VT 15 road crossing. I would encourage the reduction in pack weight by carrying out less days of food which can be accomplished by resupplying more often. Keep in mind that that might require more hitching but Vermontians are quite friendly and I did not have a problem hitching.
In regards to the Long Trail, there are plenty of road crossing that provide a place to resupply every 2-3 days. I would recommend increasing resupply points and decreasing pack weight along the trail with the exception of the area north of VT 15 to the Canadian Border. I did see traffic on the road crossing in that area but I don’t think getting a hitch is as easy since there are not resupply points close to those roads. VT 118, for example, had a gas station 4 miles east but that might have everything you’re looking for. VT 105, 2.5 miles south of the Canadian Border, has NO resupply points near the trailhead…not a single one.
A maildrop at the Inn at the Long Trail was nice but not necessary unless you have specific dietary needs. You must ship UPS to the Long Trail! The PO in Jonesville, VT is right on the trail but you can hitch on VT 2 into Richmond, VT and eat some good food at the local diner and finish off with a resupply.
This decision is completely personal but I found that resupplying is not an issue along the trail until the area north of the VT 15 road crossing. I would encourage the reduction in pack weight by carrying out less days of food which can be accomplished by resupplying more often. Keep in mind that that might require more hitching but Vermontians are quite friendly and I did not have a problem hitching.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Why I Hike and a Special Thank You
Hiking is spiritual, physical, and mental. Most often I find that
people forget or underestimate how mentally challenging a hike can
become. A hike can easily be hampered when negative thoughts begin to
occupy the mind. I always try to view situations from a positive
standpoint and find that it helps even during difficult or painful
situations, which was very evident during my Long Trail End to End.
A hike is also what you make it.
Hiking comes with a level of individualized freedom that I thrive on. I have to walk up and down mountains. I have to carry my pack filled with my gear. I have to cook my dinner, set up my tent, and wash my dishes. I have to get myself up in the morning, pack up, and head up the trail. I get to enjoy beautiful vistas, cool streams, and unforgettable experiences. Other times, I have to get out of my dry bag, put on my wet clothes, and hike out in the rain. Regardless of the situations, I must do these things. No one else can do these things for me nor can I blame anyone else for what I choose to do while I hike. All responsibilities fall on me: the freedom to hike.
I want to take a moment to thank everyone I met along this journey that allowed me the opportunity to have this freedom.
I would like to share my journey with you not only through this journal but my photos as well.
Long Trail End-to-End Pictures and Videos
A hike is also what you make it.
Hiking comes with a level of individualized freedom that I thrive on. I have to walk up and down mountains. I have to carry my pack filled with my gear. I have to cook my dinner, set up my tent, and wash my dishes. I have to get myself up in the morning, pack up, and head up the trail. I get to enjoy beautiful vistas, cool streams, and unforgettable experiences. Other times, I have to get out of my dry bag, put on my wet clothes, and hike out in the rain. Regardless of the situations, I must do these things. No one else can do these things for me nor can I blame anyone else for what I choose to do while I hike. All responsibilities fall on me: the freedom to hike.
I want to take a moment to thank everyone I met along this journey that allowed me the opportunity to have this freedom.
I would like to share my journey with you not only through this journal but my photos as well.
Long Trail End-to-End Pictures and Videos
Friday, August 19, 2011
Day 20: Hazen's Notch Camp to Journeys End Road
Hazen's Notch Camp to Journeys End Road/North Troy's B&B - 18.5 miles
Vacation all I ever wanted...vacation all I ever needed...
Today can be best summed up in two words: humid and water.
We were on trail by 6:30 am with 7 climbs for the day and roughly 18 miles planned. The first four climbs: Bruce, Buchanan, Domey's Dome, and Gilpin occurred within the first 5 miles and it was super muggy. I was dripping with sweat the whole time. I packed out 1.5 L of water but it was gone by VT 242.
No water sources! I climbed Jay Peak dry and that is when I began to experience pain in my CHEST! I stopped and tried to slow my heart beats but they wouldn't slow down. I told Whitetail something was wrong when I saw him at the summit. There were a group of hikers there and several of them gave me water and suggested that I might be severely dehydrated. One suggested that my intake of advil may be the problem. Regardless, I needed to get to water and it was 1.5 miles downhill.
I walked.
I got to Laura Woodward Shelter and downed 3 L of water and within an hour I began to feel better. i.e. I was back to my talkative self.
My water bladder was bone dry after hiking 4 miles to Shooting Star Shelter. No water at Shooting Star Shelter. In fact there was NO WATER for the final 5 miles. We attempted to hitch at VT 105 just to get water but stopped attempting after 30 mins. I began hiking in just my compression shorts to keep my body temperature as cool as possible. Climbing Carlton Mtn didn't help with my body temperature reduction at all.
I was beyond parched by the time I reached the northern terminus and the Canadian Border. I was more excited to find water at that moment than have my picture taken. Pathetic.
I made it to the Journey's End Shelter by 5:30 pm, got water, waited 15 mins for treatment, and then drank 2 liters. I attempted to eat dinner (rice, granola bar, and gummies) but my heart kept feeling funny. I thought that after 1.5 hrs I would feel recovered but I didn't.
My heart raced after I stood from giving back to nature. That's when I decided I needed to get to town tonight in case there was something seriously wrong with my heart. It was 7 pm. I packed up all my gear and Whitetail did the same. We proceeded down the 0.7 miles to the Journey's End Road. We, then, walked the 1.2 miles to North Jay Road at which point I dialed the Bed and Breakfast and they came and picked us up.
I still wasn't feeling right when we arrived at the B&B, so Sam called the paramedics. Not kidding. The paramedics arrived and did some tests to determine if I needed to go to the hospital or not, which included the usual blood pressure, heart rate, temperature, and a heart rate monitor. Gratefully, I passed all the tests. The paramedics best guess is that I became extremely dehydrated, wasn't eating enough calories, slightly anemic, and overheated climbing Jay Peak and that I really never recovered. They said the advil probably didn't interfere at all.
Wow. So instead of chilling in the woods tonight contemplating what this latest journey meant to me, I'm sprawled across a bed in a Bed and Breakfast in North Troy, VT. Nevertheless, I am very grateful to be healthy and appreciative of the opportunity I was given to hike the Long Trail.
Next big adventure? Getting back to my truck in North Adams.
Vacation all I ever wanted...vacation all I ever needed...
Today can be best summed up in two words: humid and water.
We were on trail by 6:30 am with 7 climbs for the day and roughly 18 miles planned. The first four climbs: Bruce, Buchanan, Domey's Dome, and Gilpin occurred within the first 5 miles and it was super muggy. I was dripping with sweat the whole time. I packed out 1.5 L of water but it was gone by VT 242.
No water sources! I climbed Jay Peak dry and that is when I began to experience pain in my CHEST! I stopped and tried to slow my heart beats but they wouldn't slow down. I told Whitetail something was wrong when I saw him at the summit. There were a group of hikers there and several of them gave me water and suggested that I might be severely dehydrated. One suggested that my intake of advil may be the problem. Regardless, I needed to get to water and it was 1.5 miles downhill.
I walked.
I got to Laura Woodward Shelter and downed 3 L of water and within an hour I began to feel better. i.e. I was back to my talkative self.
My water bladder was bone dry after hiking 4 miles to Shooting Star Shelter. No water at Shooting Star Shelter. In fact there was NO WATER for the final 5 miles. We attempted to hitch at VT 105 just to get water but stopped attempting after 30 mins. I began hiking in just my compression shorts to keep my body temperature as cool as possible. Climbing Carlton Mtn didn't help with my body temperature reduction at all.
I was beyond parched by the time I reached the northern terminus and the Canadian Border. I was more excited to find water at that moment than have my picture taken. Pathetic.
I made it to the Journey's End Shelter by 5:30 pm, got water, waited 15 mins for treatment, and then drank 2 liters. I attempted to eat dinner (rice, granola bar, and gummies) but my heart kept feeling funny. I thought that after 1.5 hrs I would feel recovered but I didn't.
My heart raced after I stood from giving back to nature. That's when I decided I needed to get to town tonight in case there was something seriously wrong with my heart. It was 7 pm. I packed up all my gear and Whitetail did the same. We proceeded down the 0.7 miles to the Journey's End Road. We, then, walked the 1.2 miles to North Jay Road at which point I dialed the Bed and Breakfast and they came and picked us up.
I still wasn't feeling right when we arrived at the B&B, so Sam called the paramedics. Not kidding. The paramedics arrived and did some tests to determine if I needed to go to the hospital or not, which included the usual blood pressure, heart rate, temperature, and a heart rate monitor. Gratefully, I passed all the tests. The paramedics best guess is that I became extremely dehydrated, wasn't eating enough calories, slightly anemic, and overheated climbing Jay Peak and that I really never recovered. They said the advil probably didn't interfere at all.
Wow. So instead of chilling in the woods tonight contemplating what this latest journey meant to me, I'm sprawled across a bed in a Bed and Breakfast in North Troy, VT. Nevertheless, I am very grateful to be healthy and appreciative of the opportunity I was given to hike the Long Trail.
Next big adventure? Getting back to my truck in North Adams.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Day 19: Spruce Ledge Camp to Hazen's Notch Camp
Spruce Ledge Camp to Hazen's Notch Camp - 14.5 miles
Solitude. Solitude can be scary for some and welcoming to others.
Whitetail and I have the shelter to ourselves tonight. This is only the second time during this hike that I have camped with so few people. Last night's spot was super crowded.
We joked that you can tell the difference between a SOBO and NOBO LT hiker based on their social skills. We met a gentleman today, for example, coming in the opposite direction literally talking to himself. He was a pleasant fellow.
We kept leap frogging a group of ladies who are slackpacking the LT in 70 mile sections each year. They travel from road to road and stay at a bed and breakfast each night. If only I had the money...
One of the ladies' husband was waiting at VT 58 with a car. They had told us that he had gone zip-lining today so I asked him how he enjoyed it. We took a break there and chatted with him. He has friends that just bought property in West Jefferson, NC. Small world. We dubbed him our first LT trail angel after offering cold water, triscuits, and veggie chips, which fueled me the 1.5 miles to the shelter.
Said goodbye to Angela today as she dropped our food and the ever important athletic tape off at VT 118 this morning. Also, said goodbye to Storm. Apparently, she had a mental meltdown yesterday once she reached the ford and decided to go home. Will the Divas ever finish a hike together?! Maybe we're cursed.
Nice weather the past two days. Thunder can be heard in the distance now so I retreated to the shelter. I'm sure nothing will happen weatherwise after making that move, but the battle with the mosquitoes has just begun!
Beautiful views on Belvidere and Haystack today. Steep descent down Haystack.
Walked a leisurely pace today in an attempt to satisfy my right shin and left knee. I even soaked them in a cool stream twice today for 15 mins!
My guide book reads 17.2 miles to Canada from here. Is that true?
Solitude. Solitude can be scary for some and welcoming to others.
Whitetail and I have the shelter to ourselves tonight. This is only the second time during this hike that I have camped with so few people. Last night's spot was super crowded.
We joked that you can tell the difference between a SOBO and NOBO LT hiker based on their social skills. We met a gentleman today, for example, coming in the opposite direction literally talking to himself. He was a pleasant fellow.
We kept leap frogging a group of ladies who are slackpacking the LT in 70 mile sections each year. They travel from road to road and stay at a bed and breakfast each night. If only I had the money...
One of the ladies' husband was waiting at VT 58 with a car. They had told us that he had gone zip-lining today so I asked him how he enjoyed it. We took a break there and chatted with him. He has friends that just bought property in West Jefferson, NC. Small world. We dubbed him our first LT trail angel after offering cold water, triscuits, and veggie chips, which fueled me the 1.5 miles to the shelter.
Said goodbye to Angela today as she dropped our food and the ever important athletic tape off at VT 118 this morning. Also, said goodbye to Storm. Apparently, she had a mental meltdown yesterday once she reached the ford and decided to go home. Will the Divas ever finish a hike together?! Maybe we're cursed.
Nice weather the past two days. Thunder can be heard in the distance now so I retreated to the shelter. I'm sure nothing will happen weatherwise after making that move, but the battle with the mosquitoes has just begun!
Beautiful views on Belvidere and Haystack today. Steep descent down Haystack.
Walked a leisurely pace today in an attempt to satisfy my right shin and left knee. I even soaked them in a cool stream twice today for 15 mins!
My guide book reads 17.2 miles to Canada from here. Is that true?
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Day 18: VT 15 to Spruce Ledge Camp
VT 15 to Spruce Ledge Camp - 18.0 miles
What does it mean to Hike Your Own Hike (HYOH)?
I started this trip on my own with the simple goal of getting to the Inn at the long trail by Saturday. It was painful physically but it was nice to start the day when I wanted to, break when I wanted to, and camp where I wanted to. I hiked along and found that enjoyed the solitude to a point but did enjoy company at camp at night.
After the Inn, I began hiking with a group, the Divas, and things were different. Planning involved everyone in the group, not just me anymore. Things went from simple to slightly complicated. Your hike no longer belongs to you but everyone in the group.
This brings me back to the original question and to the events of this morning...
Rocket woke to a busted knee effectively ending her hike. We had planned a 18 mile day today in hopes of finishing the trail earlier than planned. What should we do? I need to get done as my body is shutting down and time is running out, but this isn't true for the group.
Difficult decision.
I hiked out with Whitetail today around 10 am and got to the shelter by 7 pm. Terrain was gradual even up Laraway Mtn, there was a slight breeze in the air, and the skies were blue.
I'm tired and my left knee is sore but my shin is okay.
Maybe I'll see a moose in the morning.
What does it mean to Hike Your Own Hike (HYOH)?
I started this trip on my own with the simple goal of getting to the Inn at the long trail by Saturday. It was painful physically but it was nice to start the day when I wanted to, break when I wanted to, and camp where I wanted to. I hiked along and found that enjoyed the solitude to a point but did enjoy company at camp at night.
After the Inn, I began hiking with a group, the Divas, and things were different. Planning involved everyone in the group, not just me anymore. Things went from simple to slightly complicated. Your hike no longer belongs to you but everyone in the group.
This brings me back to the original question and to the events of this morning...
Rocket woke to a busted knee effectively ending her hike. We had planned a 18 mile day today in hopes of finishing the trail earlier than planned. What should we do? I need to get done as my body is shutting down and time is running out, but this isn't true for the group.
Difficult decision.
I hiked out with Whitetail today around 10 am and got to the shelter by 7 pm. Terrain was gradual even up Laraway Mtn, there was a slight breeze in the air, and the skies were blue.
I'm tired and my left knee is sore but my shin is okay.
Maybe I'll see a moose in the morning.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Day 17: Stowe, VT to VT 15
Stowe, VT to VT 15 - 14.8 miles
I would like to compare today to a casual day at the office. The divas and Whitetail slackpacked SOBO from VT 15 back to VT 108. Basically we emptied our packs to the bare essentials (food, water, headlamp, rain jacket) and got a ride from the local cab company to 15 this morning. We then hiked south back to 108 where we hitched back in to Stowe to stay another night. Brilliant really.
We met several NOBO LT hikers that have just been a day or two ahead of us. We discussed weather and the climbs. We confused a few individuals with our direction today which made for some laughs.
Light drizzle this morning with clouds slowly lifting produced some scenes right out of a misty rain forest. There was hope that the sun would appear at some point during the day.
The trail began with a ~6 mile climb up Whiteface Mtn. The divas spent this time perfecting a LT song to the tune of "Favorite Things" from sound of music. We performed the song for Whitetail during lunch at Whiteface Shelter.
The climb up Madonna Peak was short and intense. We walked straight up a ski slope and descended into what felt like a wind tunnel.
The SUN finally appeared near Sterling Pond which was so exciting and distracting that we actually got lost for about thirty minutes. Oops. The Long Trail is never forgiving.
We made it back into Stowe by 5ish and met Storm's friend who was celebrating his birthday today. We went to a pizza place that had excellent pizza BUT terrible service...TERRIBLE. We waited, for example, for 40 mins to receive our credit card receipts which gave us exactly two mins to resupply at Shaws for the next three days.
I hope I got enough food. Most hurried resupply ever.
I would like to compare today to a casual day at the office. The divas and Whitetail slackpacked SOBO from VT 15 back to VT 108. Basically we emptied our packs to the bare essentials (food, water, headlamp, rain jacket) and got a ride from the local cab company to 15 this morning. We then hiked south back to 108 where we hitched back in to Stowe to stay another night. Brilliant really.
We met several NOBO LT hikers that have just been a day or two ahead of us. We discussed weather and the climbs. We confused a few individuals with our direction today which made for some laughs.
Light drizzle this morning with clouds slowly lifting produced some scenes right out of a misty rain forest. There was hope that the sun would appear at some point during the day.
The trail began with a ~6 mile climb up Whiteface Mtn. The divas spent this time perfecting a LT song to the tune of "Favorite Things" from sound of music. We performed the song for Whitetail during lunch at Whiteface Shelter.
The climb up Madonna Peak was short and intense. We walked straight up a ski slope and descended into what felt like a wind tunnel.
The SUN finally appeared near Sterling Pond which was so exciting and distracting that we actually got lost for about thirty minutes. Oops. The Long Trail is never forgiving.
We made it back into Stowe by 5ish and met Storm's friend who was celebrating his birthday today. We went to a pizza place that had excellent pizza BUT terrible service...TERRIBLE. We waited, for example, for 40 mins to receive our credit card receipts which gave us exactly two mins to resupply at Shaws for the next three days.
I hope I got enough food. Most hurried resupply ever.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Day 16: Taylor Lodge Shelter to Stowe, VT
Taylor Lodge Shelter to Stowe, VT - 8.5 miles
I'm sure lots of people have visited Mount Mansield BUT I bet very few have been up there on a windy, rainy day like today. I counted 4 people other than our crew out on trail today.
I came across one lady that was sitting right below the Chin and I asked her if she was okay. She replied that she was done but her husband was headed to the summit and that I could take his picture on top.
I met a gentleman in cotton and a poncho slowly making his way up the trail. As I passed him he asked me to wait for him on top to take his picture. I did.
Very windy on the Chin! After name and photo exchanges, I said goodbye and headed down the Chin. Crazy descent on slippery rocks. That's when I noticed that the tips to both my poles are bent making them practically useless on wet rocks. Interesting...
We stopped only at the two lodges: Butler and Taft to regroup due to weather. The lodges are completely enclosed and the caretaker at Taft made us hot chocolate which was a sweet surprise.
The 1.7 miles down to Smuggler's notch wasn't as bad as the profile lead me to believe. I took my time over the wet rocks. I did meet a family headed to Taft out in this weather. Dedication.
We got a hitch from a gentleman from Long Island on vacation with his family. I felt bad for soaking his car seat with my wet clothes.
I'm planning on taking the rest of the day to rest my shin. Poor thing. I could fill the fluid move as soon as I took the tape off. Just a few more days. Hang in there buddy!
Passed the 200 mile mark today.
I'm sure lots of people have visited Mount Mansield BUT I bet very few have been up there on a windy, rainy day like today. I counted 4 people other than our crew out on trail today.
I came across one lady that was sitting right below the Chin and I asked her if she was okay. She replied that she was done but her husband was headed to the summit and that I could take his picture on top.
I met a gentleman in cotton and a poncho slowly making his way up the trail. As I passed him he asked me to wait for him on top to take his picture. I did.
Very windy on the Chin! After name and photo exchanges, I said goodbye and headed down the Chin. Crazy descent on slippery rocks. That's when I noticed that the tips to both my poles are bent making them practically useless on wet rocks. Interesting...
We stopped only at the two lodges: Butler and Taft to regroup due to weather. The lodges are completely enclosed and the caretaker at Taft made us hot chocolate which was a sweet surprise.
The 1.7 miles down to Smuggler's notch wasn't as bad as the profile lead me to believe. I took my time over the wet rocks. I did meet a family headed to Taft out in this weather. Dedication.
We got a hitch from a gentleman from Long Island on vacation with his family. I felt bad for soaking his car seat with my wet clothes.
I'm planning on taking the rest of the day to rest my shin. Poor thing. I could fill the fluid move as soon as I took the tape off. Just a few more days. Hang in there buddy!
Passed the 200 mile mark today.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Day 15: Duck Brook Shelter to Taylor Lodge Shelter
Duck Brook Shelter to Taylor Lodge Shelter - 13. 2 miles
Tired. I feel so tired. Drained.
Raindrops hitting my tent woke me before 6 am. Without a second thought I put everything in my contractor bag, broke down my tent, and headed to the nearby shelter to continue my slumber.
All the divas were up by seven breaking down their tents and we were on trail by 8:30 am to begin the climbing day.
Climb, we did. Duck Brook Shelter is at 670 ft and we climbed to Bolton Mtn at 3,725 ft in a little over six miles.
Humidity was high today coupled with no water on trail left me with a dehydration headache at the end of the day. We had to take the 0.3 mile side trail to Buchanan Shelter to get water at lunch.
Thunder started to sound overhead with 3.4 miles left in the day. My fight or flight survival mode kicked in and I took off down the trail begging the storm to hold off until we arrived at the shelter. I completely ignored my shin. I did have to slow down near the technical section in the Nebraska Notch when I encountered a ladder and large rocks. One of my pole tips became bent in the process.
We ALL arrived dry to the shelter only for the storm to disappear. Weird and slightly disappointing. I wanted hail, lightening, and thunder in all it's glory but it didn't happen.
Hopefully, it will remain dry for our climb over Mount Mansfield tomorrow. Just as a precaution, we're staying in the shelter tonight with the overly bold chipmunk and mice.
Fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow.
Tired. I feel so tired. Drained.
Raindrops hitting my tent woke me before 6 am. Without a second thought I put everything in my contractor bag, broke down my tent, and headed to the nearby shelter to continue my slumber.
All the divas were up by seven breaking down their tents and we were on trail by 8:30 am to begin the climbing day.
Climb, we did. Duck Brook Shelter is at 670 ft and we climbed to Bolton Mtn at 3,725 ft in a little over six miles.
Humidity was high today coupled with no water on trail left me with a dehydration headache at the end of the day. We had to take the 0.3 mile side trail to Buchanan Shelter to get water at lunch.
Thunder started to sound overhead with 3.4 miles left in the day. My fight or flight survival mode kicked in and I took off down the trail begging the storm to hold off until we arrived at the shelter. I completely ignored my shin. I did have to slow down near the technical section in the Nebraska Notch when I encountered a ladder and large rocks. One of my pole tips became bent in the process.
We ALL arrived dry to the shelter only for the storm to disappear. Weird and slightly disappointing. I wanted hail, lightening, and thunder in all it's glory but it didn't happen.
Hopefully, it will remain dry for our climb over Mount Mansfield tomorrow. Just as a precaution, we're staying in the shelter tonight with the overly bold chipmunk and mice.
Fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Day 14: Montclair Glen Shelter to Duck Brook Shelter
Montclair Glen Shelter to Duck Brook Shelter - 13.0 miles
Birthdays are incredibly special occasions for people and when they happen to occur while on trail they can become lasting magical moments. Today we celebrated Whitetail's birthday in Richmond, VT with sodas, greasy food, and ice cream.
Let's back up a bit...
I arrived at Camel's hump, 4,083 ft in elevation, at 9:30 am and had the summit all to myself...well at least almost all to myself. I noticed a couple to my left that had but one thing on their minds and it wasn't "G" rated...awkward.
Panoramic views of Lake Champlain. Whites, Killington, Mt Mansfield, and the Granite Mtns could all be seen. We stayed for an hour or so as people started to hike up to the summit. Once it got too crowded with dogs and people, we decided it was best to hike on.
Down, down, down...
Six miles downhill with a 4,000 ft drop in elevation was exhausting on my knees and shin. We followed that up with a 3 mile road walk to Jonesville following the Winooski River. That was a very hot walk indeed.
We met Whitetail at the Jonesville PO and hitched a ride 4 miles to Richmond for a birthday dinner. We arrived at the shelter with full stomachs before dark and soaked our feet/legs. Going to bed early tonight.
Bolton Mountain tomorrow.
Birthdays are incredibly special occasions for people and when they happen to occur while on trail they can become lasting magical moments. Today we celebrated Whitetail's birthday in Richmond, VT with sodas, greasy food, and ice cream.
Let's back up a bit...
I arrived at Camel's hump, 4,083 ft in elevation, at 9:30 am and had the summit all to myself...well at least almost all to myself. I noticed a couple to my left that had but one thing on their minds and it wasn't "G" rated...awkward.
Panoramic views of Lake Champlain. Whites, Killington, Mt Mansfield, and the Granite Mtns could all be seen. We stayed for an hour or so as people started to hike up to the summit. Once it got too crowded with dogs and people, we decided it was best to hike on.
Down, down, down...
Six miles downhill with a 4,000 ft drop in elevation was exhausting on my knees and shin. We followed that up with a 3 mile road walk to Jonesville following the Winooski River. That was a very hot walk indeed.
We met Whitetail at the Jonesville PO and hitched a ride 4 miles to Richmond for a birthday dinner. We arrived at the shelter with full stomachs before dark and soaked our feet/legs. Going to bed early tonight.
Bolton Mountain tomorrow.
Friday, August 12, 2011
Day 13: Appalachian Gap to Montclair Shelter
Appalachian Gap to Montclair Shelter - 10.6 Miles
Burnt Rock Mountain humbled me today.
I re-aggravated my shin (I might have been typing chin in earlier entries so I apologize for any confusion) running down the trail during that crazy hail/lightening storm a couple of days ago and going up/over/around slabs of rocks on Burnt Rock Mountain didn't help the road to recovery.
I naively thought that a ten mile day would be perfect for my shin...and it would have been if it weren't for Burnt Mountain. I even told Rocket that I wanted to get a t-shirt with the words "I <3 Burnt Mtn" so that I could burn it.
The best comparison I have for Burnt Mountain is that the climb up reminded me of climbing Kinsman in the Whites and going down reminded me of Baldpate in Southern Maine. Brutally slow and dangerous. I had a couple of near miss falls today.
I was in so much pain climbing Mt Ira Allen and Mt Ethan Allen that I took a break, ate a granola bar, rubbed my shin, and took a naproxen. I also had the divas with me which calmed me down. They do always know exactly what to say and I am quite appreciative.
The last mile was straight down into Wind Gap and I took my time. I also iced my shin in the stream at the Shelter and rubbed it some more. I really need to pamper that area from here on out with 100 miles to go.
Huge group of people here tonight at the shelter 1.8 miles from the summit of Camel's Hump. The caretaker said over 300 people will be on the Hump tomorrow with good weather expected. He also informed us that there is a juvenile moose that roams our tenting area at night. He gave us strict orders not to spook it...should be interesting.
Weather and views were amazing today. Felt like I was back in southern Maine. Chilly tenting at 3,000 ft tonight.
I really hate being humbled.
Burnt Rock Mountain humbled me today.
I re-aggravated my shin (I might have been typing chin in earlier entries so I apologize for any confusion) running down the trail during that crazy hail/lightening storm a couple of days ago and going up/over/around slabs of rocks on Burnt Rock Mountain didn't help the road to recovery.
I naively thought that a ten mile day would be perfect for my shin...and it would have been if it weren't for Burnt Mountain. I even told Rocket that I wanted to get a t-shirt with the words "I <3 Burnt Mtn" so that I could burn it.
The best comparison I have for Burnt Mountain is that the climb up reminded me of climbing Kinsman in the Whites and going down reminded me of Baldpate in Southern Maine. Brutally slow and dangerous. I had a couple of near miss falls today.
I was in so much pain climbing Mt Ira Allen and Mt Ethan Allen that I took a break, ate a granola bar, rubbed my shin, and took a naproxen. I also had the divas with me which calmed me down. They do always know exactly what to say and I am quite appreciative.
The last mile was straight down into Wind Gap and I took my time. I also iced my shin in the stream at the Shelter and rubbed it some more. I really need to pamper that area from here on out with 100 miles to go.
Huge group of people here tonight at the shelter 1.8 miles from the summit of Camel's Hump. The caretaker said over 300 people will be on the Hump tomorrow with good weather expected. He also informed us that there is a juvenile moose that roams our tenting area at night. He gave us strict orders not to spook it...should be interesting.
Weather and views were amazing today. Felt like I was back in southern Maine. Chilly tenting at 3,000 ft tonight.
I really hate being humbled.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Day 12: Cooley Glen Shelter to Appalachian Gap
Cooley Glen Shelter to Appalachian Gap - 17.1 miles
It's all about perspective.
Long day planned with the treat of ending the day in town was how I approached today. My hiking clothes were still soaking wet this morning from the previous evening of ridgeline hiking in a hail storm so I opted to hike out in my sleep clothes until my body temp was warm enough that I could handle putting on the wet clothes.
The temperature began at 50 degrees and barely got up to 60 during the day as we hiked between 3,000 to 4,000 ft in elevation. Mt Grant was in a cloud BUT by the time we reached Mt Abraham the clouds burned off and we had panoramic views of the Green Mtns, the Whites, Lake Champlain, and Canada! I even took my shoes off and let the sun warm my feet. It was completely magical.
The section across Lincoln Mtn reminded me of the roller coaster at 4 times the elevation as I went up and down 5 different peaks including
Stopped at Stark's nest for a quick refueling then headed down to Appalachian Gap, VT 17. Got a hitch from a former LT hiker to the Hyde Away Inn. It still amazes me how simple needs such as a hot shower, warm food, cold liquid carbohydrates, and clean clothes can quickly diminish the pain and discomforts of hiking all day in wet socks, putting on cold and wet clothes, sleeping and packing up a wet tent.
I find that hiking is 25% physical and 75% mental.
How you gonna look at that glass?
It's all about perspective.
Long day planned with the treat of ending the day in town was how I approached today. My hiking clothes were still soaking wet this morning from the previous evening of ridgeline hiking in a hail storm so I opted to hike out in my sleep clothes until my body temp was warm enough that I could handle putting on the wet clothes.
The temperature began at 50 degrees and barely got up to 60 during the day as we hiked between 3,000 to 4,000 ft in elevation. Mt Grant was in a cloud BUT by the time we reached Mt Abraham the clouds burned off and we had panoramic views of the Green Mtns, the Whites, Lake Champlain, and Canada! I even took my shoes off and let the sun warm my feet. It was completely magical.
The section across Lincoln Mtn reminded me of the roller coaster at 4 times the elevation as I went up and down 5 different peaks including
Stopped at Stark's nest for a quick refueling then headed down to Appalachian Gap, VT 17. Got a hitch from a former LT hiker to the Hyde Away Inn. It still amazes me how simple needs such as a hot shower, warm food, cold liquid carbohydrates, and clean clothes can quickly diminish the pain and discomforts of hiking all day in wet socks, putting on cold and wet clothes, sleeping and packing up a wet tent.
I find that hiking is 25% physical and 75% mental.
How you gonna look at that glass?
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